Definition
Beta is the planned sequence of hands and feet on the speed route. Because the holds do not change, athletes can rehearse one sequence until it is automatic, then test small variations.
How beta works on a fixed route
In boulder and lead, beta is often discovered on the day. In speed, the hold coordinates are known in advance. The work is choosing a sequence that fits the athlete’s reach and power, then repeating it until misses are rare.
Why two athletes use different beta
Height, ape index and preferred footwork change which holds get skipped and where the hips travel. The route is the same; the fastest reliable sequence is personal.
Related guides
See the route sequence guide and the hold layout.