How to use this glossary
The most important terms have dedicated definitions; narrower terms link to the guide where the concept is explained in context.
A
Attempt
A single competitive or training ascent of the Speed route. In official competition, whether an attempt is valid depends on the applicable rules and timing outcome.
Related guide →Key references
- Reaction time
- False start
- Speed wall layout — the numbers behind “speed wall”
- Route map
- Complete guide
Auto belay
An automatic belaying system that retracts the safety line as the climber ascends and controls descent after the run.
Related guide →B
Beta
The planned movement sequence used to climb the standardized route. Speed beta can be refined repeatedly because the hold layout is fixed.
Term →Big final
The race that determines first and second place after the semifinal stage in a traditional elimination final.
Related guide →C
Call zone
The controlled competition area where athletes report and wait before being called for their race or attempt.
Related guide →Competition time
The recorded elapsed time for a valid Speed attempt, measured by the event timing system.
Related guide →Continental record
A formally recognized best Speed performance for an eligible continental record category under the governing rules.
Related guide →D
Dyno
A dynamic climbing movement in which the athlete generates momentum to reach the next contact rapidly.
Related guide →E
Elimination
A head-to-head competition stage in which race outcomes determine who advances toward the medal rounds.
Related guide →F
Fall
An unsuccessful Speed attempt caused by losing the route or otherwise meeting the governing rule definition of a fall.
Related guide →False start
An invalid start determined by the competition timing and rules system. Current rules use recorded reaction time as part of the false-start determination.
Term →Finish pad
The timing pad at the top of the route that an athlete strikes with a hand to stop the timer.
Term →Foot chip
The smaller standardized Speed hold primarily used for foot contacts on the fixed route.
Related guide →Four-lane Speed
A competition format using four standardized Speed lanes, enabling expanded individual and relay race formats.
Related guide →H
Harness
Personal protective equipment connecting the athlete to the automatic belay or other approved safety system.
Related guide →Hold
A standardized climbing feature fixed to the Speed wall in prescribed positions and orientations.
Related guide →I
Invalid result
A competition result that does not count as a valid performance under the applicable rules or result system.
Related guide →L
Lane
One standardized Speed route position on a competition wall. Traditional events use parallel lanes; newer formats can use four.
Related guide →Lane A / Lane B
The two lane designations traditionally used on a standard two-lane Speed wall.
Related guide →M
Movement efficiency
The degree to which an athlete converts force and motion into useful upward progress with minimal wasted displacement or correction.
Related guide →O
Olympic record
The best officially recognized Speed performance achieved within the Olympic record framework.
Related guide →P
PB / personal best
An athlete's fastest personal Speed time. A PB is not automatically an official world, continental or Olympic record.
Related guide →Practice period
A pre-competition opportunity, when provided, for athletes to experience the competition wall, lanes, timing and start system.
Related guide →Q
Qualification
The competition round used to rank or seed athletes for later stages according to the event format.
Term →R
Reaction time
The measured interval between the start signal and the athlete's release from the starting pad as defined by the timing system.
Term →Record
A formally recognized best performance in an eligible Speed record category, subject to governing requirements.
Related guide →Relay
A team Speed format in which multiple athletes contribute sequential legs or races according to the event rules.
Related guide →Re-run
An additional attempt authorized under defined competition circumstances such as certain technical incidents or race situations.
Related guide →Route
The standardized sequence of Speed holds and wall geometry climbed in competition.
Related guide →S
Seeding
The process of ordering or pairing athletes for subsequent competition stages based on qualification results or the applicable format.
Term →Small final
The medal race between semifinal losers that determines third place in a traditional elimination format.
Related guide →Speed climbing
The climbing discipline in which athletes race on standardized routes to stop the timer in the shortest valid time.
Related guide →Speed hold
One of the standardized hold types used to construct the official Speed route.
Related guide →Speed route
The fixed standardized route used for official Speed competition and record comparison.
Term →Speed wall
The standardized competition wall and route environment used for Speed climbing.
Term →Split time
An intermediate timing measurement used to show how quickly an athlete reaches a defined route landmark or phase.
Term →Start pad
The pressure-sensitive starting device used by the timing system to detect the athlete's release at the start.
Term →Starting position
The required stable body and hold configuration an athlete assumes before the start sequence.
Related guide →Starting signal
The audible timing sequence that initiates a Speed race or attempt under the competition procedure.
Related guide →T
Technical incident
A competition circumstance recognized under the rules that can affect an athlete's attempt and may lead to a remedy such as a re-run.
Related guide →Timing system
The electronic system that coordinates the start, starting pad, elapsed time, finish detection and result output.
Term →Trajectory
The path followed by the athlete or body center through space during the climb; a key concept in Speed biomechanics.
Related guide →V
Valid time
A recorded Speed time that satisfies the applicable competition and result requirements.
Related guide →W
World Climbing
The international federation governing competitive climbing, formerly known as the IFSC.
Related guide →World record
The fastest officially recognized performance in an eligible World Climbing Speed record category.
Term →World Cup
World Climbing's international season competition series, including Speed events.
Related guide →Terminology and rule changes
Competition terminology can change as World Climbing updates rules and formats. Rule-dependent definitions should be read together with the current Competition & Rules section. The glossary favors durable concepts and routes time-sensitive details to maintained guides.