This page summarizes one paper. Findings should be interpreted within its design, sample and limitations.
| Study | Performance indicators in speed climbing: insights from the literature supplemented by a video analysis and expert interviews |
|---|---|
| Year | 2023 |
| Design | Review + video analysis + expert interviews |
| Evidence label | Direct Speed Evidence — synthesis |
Research question and overview
This paper was designed specifically to identify physical and tactical factors associated with peak Speed performance. It combined existing Speed literature with competition video analysis and expert perspectives.
Methods
The authors reviewed relevant literature, analyzed high-level competition video and incorporated expert interviews. This mixed approach is useful when a sport's formal research base is still small, although the components do not all carry the same evidentiary weight.
Main findings
The paper highlighted lower-limb power, movement fluency, coordinated motion, correct foot movement, reaction/start factors and other physical characteristics as relevant to performance. Its central practical message is that power must be converted through motor control and route execution.
Limitations
The review was constrained by the number and scale of Speed-specific studies available. Expert interviews provide domain knowledge but are not randomized evidence, and associations should not be treated as proof of causation.
Practical meaning
This is one of the best orientation papers for the site because it explains why Training is multi-factor and why Technique emphasizes accuracy, sequence and fluency.
Read the original paper
Performance indicators in speed climbing: insights from the literature supplemented by a video analysis and expert interviews. The original paper is authoritative for exact methods, statistics and author conclusions.